Extreme alpinism - sports

I'm struck by any book on a dangerous subject that looks as though it escaped the inspection of lawyers. Extreme Alpinism (with the exception of the title) is the best book I have read on any outdoor subject. It's devoted largely to author Twight's theory and practice of alpinism--his drastic gear weight reduction methods go far beyond simple ultralight camping. Twight has combined new ways of using clothing, equipment, nutrition, and training to survive impossible situations and achieve incredible feats. The sections on Twight's own failures are a rarity and probably the best part. While I'm not an alpinist myself, this book has been inspirational in all my outdoor activities.

Extreme alpinism is a matter of will. We all know this to be true. In every endeavor, people who concentrate and refuse to quit become the elite.

In a dangerous environment, speed is safety. Climbing routes at the edge of the possible is akin to playing Russian roulette. Each time the cylinder spins, the chance of firing a live cartridge increases. Therefore, "Keep moving" is the mantra of the extreme climber. The idea of speed permeates this book.

It's impossible to stay fully hydrated while actually climbing, so rehydrating at the end of the day or during breaks between hard effort is essential. Because of the climbing, your body will be dehydrated, your stomach and your entire system will be highly acidic, your muscles will be holding onto metabolic waste, and your glycogen reserves will be gone. First and foremost, you must drink. Plain water is fine. Once you are a quart ahead, start adding your recovery foods and supplements.

Light and fast as a style results in the ultimate autonomy and self-determination--but any time you decide to pare food, fuel, and gear down to a marginal level, you accept great risk and must therefore accept great responsibility. If your style is too light, or you drop a crucial piece of gear, or the weather turns bad, you must retreat. Or if you are too high on the mountain, then you have to fail upward as quickly as possible. You must keep moving at all costs. Movement is your only safe haven.

Extreme Alpinism
Climbing Light, Fast,
& High
Mark F. Twight
2001, 238 pages, $28
The Mountaineers
Seattle, WA

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