Out of Africa: feast on Kwanzaa's fruit of the harvest

menu

Granny's Icebox Rolls

Tofu Gumbo

White Corn Grits Souffle

Black-Eyed Pea Croquettes

Sugared Sweet Potatoes, Plantains and Apples

Mixed Greens

Macaroni and Cheese

Five-Flavor Pound Cake with Caramel Drizzle

Kwanzaa--you'll find it on any December calendar, inked between Christmas and New Year's, a holiday so novel that 40 years ago it didn't exist. Yet 15 million people worldwide now circle the dates for Kwanzaa, the creation of a California college professor and African-American activist named Maulana Karenga.

Kwanzaa, Swahili for "first fruits of the harvest," is a 7-day celebration of life, family, community and culture. From December 26 through January 1, African Americans give thanks for past accomplishments--the "fruits" of their labor--pay homage to their ancestors and reaffirm the values of their African heritage. A cultural rather than a religious observance, Kwanzaa is a time of fasting, feasting and self-examination.

Based on traditional harvest festivals, Kwanzaa was established in 1966 at the height of the Black Freedom Movement. Desiring Pan-African solidarity, Karenga, a Black Studies professor at California State University, Long Beach, created Kwanzaa with three purposes: to restore rootedness in African culture; to reaffirm a common identity and direction as a world community; and to introduce and reinforce the Seven Principles of unity, self-determination, collective work and responsibility, cooperative economics, purpose, creativity and faith.

During Kwanzaa, family members gather each night to light red, green and black candles corresponding to the Seven Principles. As each candle is lit, the family discusses the principle of the day and makes a commitment to practice that principle throughout the year.

The rituals of Kwanzaa also include eating--and lots of it. The sixth day of Kwanzaa, December 31, is marked by a lavish feast. "The Kwanzaa Karuma, in keeping with the theme of black unity, draws on the cuisines of Africa, the Caribbean and southern America, wherever Africans were taken," says classically trained chef Carla Hall, a native of Nashville, Tennessee, and a proponent of showcasing African-American cooking minus the meat. "The way I contribute, as the cook in the family, is to take a few of my grandmother's old traditions and my food memories, add a new twist to some of them and create new traditions."

The following recipes are some of Hall's favorites. Whether or not you celebrate Kwanzaa, you're sure to find any of these dishes welcome at your holiday table.

Washington, DC, resident Carla Hall graduated from the cooking school L'Academie de Cuisine in Maryland. She runs Alchemy Caterers and teaches cooking classes.

Granny's Icebox Rolls

MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN ROLLS

When I was growing up, Sunday dinner
was always at my grandmother's house 30
miles away. I always wanted my mom to
pull over and call ahead to let Granny
know we were just 10 minutes away. She
would never start the cornbread or bake
the rolls until we were in the house.

1/4 cup lukewarm water

1 pkg. dried yeast

1 tsp. plus 1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 cup whole milk

1/4 tsp. salt

1 stick plus 4 Tbs. melted butter

1 large egg, beaten

3 cups all-purpose flour

1. Combine lukewarm water, yeast and 1
teaspoon sugar. Let yeast bubble and double
in size, about 15 minutes.

2. Mix milk, remaining 1/4 cup sugar, salt,
butter and beaten egg together. Slowly stir
in flour. Add yeast mixture to flour mixture,
stirring well--dough should be very
sticky. Cover flour mixture with wax paper
and towel, and place in warm area. Let
rise until it doubles in bulk, about 1 hour.

3. Divide dough into two sections. Knead
each section about 4 minutes, and on
floured surface, roll out dough to about
1/4-inch thick.

4. Use 2-inch round cookie cutter to cut
dough into circles. Brush dough cutouts
with remaining melted butter. Fold dough
cutouts in half, spray baking sheet with
nonstick cooking spray and place dough
on sheet about 1 1/2-inches apart. Let rise
about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk.

5. Preheat oven to 400F.

6. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden
brown on top. Remove from oven, and
serve hot.

PER SERVING: 80 CAL; 2G PROT; 4.5G TOTAL
FAT (2.5G SAT. FAT); 10G CARB; 15MG CHOL;
75MG SOD; 0G FIBER; 2G SUGARS

Tofu Gumbo

SERVES 8

Gumbo may be made with a number of
main ingredients, so why not tofu? Marinated
tofu is a modern addition to this old
Cajun favorite--along with the distinctive
texture of okra. It's served over a White
Corn Grits Souffle, which is fluffed with
eggs and served golden brown and piping
hot right out of the oven. Leftover grits
may be sliced and fried like polenta for
breakfast the next morning or eaten as a
snack later in the day.

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1/2 onion, diced

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

1/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup cider vinegar

1 Tbs. brown sugar

1 lb. extra-firm tofu, cut in 1/2-inch
cubes

3 Tbs. plus 1/4 cup canola oil

1/2 onion, diced

2 ribs celery, diced

1 green pepper, diced

1/2 red pepper, diced

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1 cup diced canned tomatoes

1 tsp. dried thyme leaves

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 tsp. dried basil

2 bay leaves

2 cups vegetable stock

Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste

1/4 lb. okra, cut in 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1. Combine garlic, onion, mustard, cayenne
pepper, peanut oil, vinegar and brown
sugar in large bowl. Place tofu cubes in
mixture, and marinate 2 to 24 hours.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in large
pot over medium heat. Saute onions,
celery, peppers and garlic until onions are
translucent and vegetables are soft, about
10 minutes. Add tomatoes, thyme,
oregano, basil, bay leaves, stock, salt and
pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low, and
cook 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet,
and saute okra until light brown. Remove
from skillet, and add to tomato mixture.

4. Drain tofu, keeping diced onion. Reheat
skillet, and saute tofu until lightly browned.
Remove from skillet, and add to tomato
mixture.

5. Heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in skillet, and
whisk in flour. Continue whisking mixture,
or roux, until it is light brown and smells
slightly nutty, for 3 to 4 minutes.

6. Reheat tomato mixture over medium
heat, and stir in roux 1 tablespoon at a
time. Continue to stir until gumbo is consistency
of gravy. Remove from heat, and
serve over White Corn Grits Souffle.

PER SERVING: 360 CAL; 8G PROT; 30G TOTAL
FAT (3G SAT. FAT); 16G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
240MG SOD; 3G FIBER; 5G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

A Kendall Jackson or Sterling Chardonnay, both bold enough to stand up to the rich, nutty gumbo, is one way to go with the dish. And if you prefer Chardonnays on the lighter side, pair this dish with a Jacobs Creek South Eastern Australian.

White Corn Grits Souffle

SERVES 8

4 cups water

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 cups white corn grits

3 Tbs. butter

1 Tbs. minced garlic

2 cups soymilk, unsweetened

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

1. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. Bring water and salt to a rolling boil.
Slowly add grits while constantly whisking
to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to low, and
continue cooking and stirring until grits
thicken. Add butter, garlic and soymilk.
Continue cooking over low heat for about
5 minutes. Add eggs. Pour mixture into
1 1/4-quart ovenproof dish.

3. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, or until
puffed and golden brown. Remove from
oven, and serve with Tofu Gumbo.

PER SERVING: 240 CAL; 8G PROT; 8G TOTAL
FAT (3.5G SAT. FAT); 35G CARB; 90MG CHOL;
310MG SOD; 1G FIBER; 0G SUGARS

Black-Eyed Pea Croquettes

SERVES 8

The myth in the African-American community
is that black-eyed peas should be
eaten on New Year's Day for good luck.
The traditional dish is called Hoppin' John,
which is a mix of black-eyed peas, rice and
pork sausage. There are several theories
on how this dish got its name, but here is
a new twist on this old favorite. The mix
may be made 1 day ahead, but add the
breadcrumbs when you make the patties.

6 cups water

2 cups uncooked black-eyed peas

1 tsp. salt

1 Tbs. canola oil

1 small onion, diced

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1 1/2 cups canned fire-roasted
tomatoes, diced

1/4 tsp. chili paste, or more to taste

1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black
pepper to taste

3 scallions, thinly sliced

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

4 cups fresh breadcrumbs

Flour for dusting

1. Bring 6 cups water to a boil over high
heat, and add peas and 1 tsp. salt. Cook
peas for 1 hour or until tender. Remove
from heat, and set aside to cool.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil on medium heat,
and saute onion until translucent, about 7
minutes. Add garlic and tomatoes, bring to
a boil and reduce heat to low. Add chili
paste, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, and
cook for 20 minutes. Remove from heat,
and set aside to cool.

3. Combine peas and tomato mixture.
Place half of pea mixture in food processor
and puree, or mash half with back of
wooden spoon in bowl. Add mashed mixture
to remaining beans, and add scallions
eggs and breadcrumbs. Mixture should be
thick but moist. If it is too moist, add more
breadcrumbs. Form mixture into 1 1/2-inch
round patties, about 1/2-inch thick.

4. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high
heat. Dust each patty with flour, and
gently place in skillet. Cook for about 2
minutes on each side, and repeat process
until all mixture is used, adding more oil if
needed. Remove from heat, drain on paper
towels and serve hot.

PER SERVING: 90 CAL; 2G PROT; 6G TOTAL
FAT (0.5G SAT. FAT); 6G CARB; 20MG CHOL;
110MG SOD; <1G FIBER; 1G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

What better way to enjoy these tasty New Year's treats than with Champagne? An icy flute of Korbel Brut, a Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut or a Veuve Clicquot is the perfect companion to these crispy yet hearty patties. Be festive--open the bottle while you're preparing them.

Sugared Sweet Potatoes,
Plantains and Apples

SERVES 8

While candied yams are a typical side dish
in soul food cooking, combining them with
plantains, a Caribbean and African favorite,
and seasonal apples, which are plentiful at
this time of year, makes for a delicious side
dish or dessert. Black-ripe plantains are
very soft and sweet and are generally used
in desserts.

2 very ripe, blackened plantains

1 large sweet potato, peeled

3 Granny Smith apples, diced

3 Tbs. soy margarine, melted

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp. ground ginger

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 cup water

1. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. Cut ends off plantains, and halve lengthwise.
Remove peel by putting thumb
between fruit and peel, and pulling thumb
down length of fruit. Cut plantain on bias
into 1/2-inch pieces.

3. Quarter sweet potato lengthwise. Cut
each quarter into 1/4-inch pieces.

4. Mix apples, plantains and sweet potatoes
in large bowl in separate bowl,
combine melted margarine, brown sugar,
cinnamon, ginger, salt and water. Toss
sweet potato mixture with brown sugar
mixture, and place into ovenproof dish.

5. Bake for 20 minutes covered. Uncover,
and bake 20 minutes more.

PER SERVING: 200 CAL; 1G PROT; 4.5G TOTAL
FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 42G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
200MG SOD; 4G FIBER; 24G SUGARS

Wine Suggestions

With all that's going on in this dish, keep the wine simple. A not-too-sweet Riesling would work well, something light but not overpowering such as a Columbia Valley Riesling. For a little more adventure and for flavors of fruits and spices to complement this dish, try a German Sparr Gewurztraminer Reserve.

Mixed Greens

SERVES 8

You can find a mix of hearty greens in just
about any typical African, Caribbean and
southern American meal. Being from the
South, I became accustomed to seeing the
bottle of vinegar with chile peppers settled
at the bottom on the table next to
the salt and pepper and a condiment
called chow chow pickle. These condiments
were used to "fix up" your greens.
You will find these add punch.

1 Tbs. canola oil

1 medium-sized onion, sliced

1 Tbs. minced garlic

1 tsp. chili paste

3 cups water

1 tsp. salt, or to taste

1 Tbs. white vinegar

1 bunch collard greens, cleaned
and cut into 1 1/4-inch-thick strips,
3 inches long

1/2 head green cabbage, cored and
cut into 1 1/4-inch-thick strips

1 bunch mustard greens, cleaned
and cut into 1 1/4-inch-thick strips,
3 inches long

1. Heat oil in large pot over medium heat.
Saute onions until translucent, for about 7
minutes. Add garlic, chili paste, water, salt
and vinegar, and let seasoned water cook
for 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Add greens, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until tender, for about 30 minutes.
Remove from heat, adjust salt and serve.

PER SERVING: 80 CAL; 4G PROT: 2G TOTAL
FAT (0G SAT. FAT); 12G CARB; 0MG CHOL;
340MG SOD; 5G FIBER; 4G SUGARS

Macaroni and Cheese

SERVES 8

The ultimate comfort food!

8 oz. elbow noodles, cooked

1 lb. shredded low-fat Cheddar
cheese

8 oz. soft silken tofu

2 cups unsweetened soymilk

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. minced garlic

2 Tbs. soy margarine

1. Preheat oven to 350F.

2. Mix drained noodles with 2 cups grated
cheese, tofu, soymilk, salt, garlic and margarine.
Place in 2-quart ovenproof dish,
and top with remaining cheese.

3. Bake about 40 minutes, or until cheese
is bubbly. Remove from oven, and serve.

PER SERVING: 390 CAL; 21G PROT; 24G TOTAL
FAT (13G SAT. FAT): 22G CARB; 60MG CHOL;
690MG SOD: 2G FIBER; 2G SUGARS

Five-Flavor Pound Cake

SERVES 10 TO 12

This was the first recipe that I shared
when I started working at a restaurant. I
was so excited that I called my grandmother
to tell her that "Granny's Five-Flavor
Pound Cake" was in print on the
dinner menu. This was the cake that
all the grandchildren would beg Granny
to send after we moved away. At
Christmas, it was served with boiled custard.
The Caramel Drizzle makes an
intense icing, and a decorative sugar adds
glamour to this festive cake.

Five-Flavor Pound Cake

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. baking soda

2 sticks butter

2 1/2 cups granulated sugar

6 large eggs

1 cup low-fat sour cream

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 tsp. rum extract

1 tsp. coconut flavoring

1 tsp. lemon extract

1 tsp. almond extract

1. Preheat oven to 350F. Spray decorative
or regular 10-inch tube pan or Bundt pan
with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Sift and measure flour in mixing bowl.
Add salt and baking soda, sift again and set
mixture aside.

3. Cream butter and sugar with electric
mixer. Add eggs, one at a time, incorporating
each well after adding.

4. Add flour alternately with sour cream,
beginning and ending with flour. Mix for at
least 2 minutes on medium speed.

5. Add extracts one at a time, incorporating
each in mixture before next addition.
Continue mixing batter until it is shiny,
about 3 to 5 minutes, Pour batter into
tube pan, and place pan in center of oven.

6. Bake for 1 hour, or until cake is golden
and toothpick inserted in center comes
out clean. Remove from oven, and cool
cake slightly on wire rack before turning it
out onto serving plate. Cool cake completely
before drizzling with caramel.

Caramel Drizzle

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2 cup low-fat milk or vanilla
soymilk

2 Tbs. butter or margarine
tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. salt

1 tsp. vanilla extract

1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar

1. Combine brown sugar, milk, butter and
salt in saucepan. Bring to a boil over
medium-high heat, stirring constantly.
Reduce heat to low, and cook until mixture
is slightly thick, about 5 minutes, stirring
occasionally.

2. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla and
gradually beat in confectioners' sugar. Stir
until smooth and creamy. Let icing cool
slightly, and pour over cake. Icing hardens
as it cools.

PER SERVING: 630 CAL; 7G PROT; 23G TOTAL
FAT (13G SAT. FAT); 100G CARB; 160MG
CHOL; 770MG SOD; <1G FIBER; 73G SUGARS

COPYRIGHT 2003 Vegetarian Times, Inc. All rights reserved.
COPYRIGHT 2003 Gale Group